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Concrete buy cues

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Article #1

cue stickcuepool cuesnooker cuebilliards cuebilliard stick


This section needs expansion. You can help by adding to it. (April 2009)


Pool and snooker cues average around 57–59 inches (140–150 cm) in length and are of three major types. The simplest type is a one-piece cue; these are generally stocked in pool halls for communal use. They have a uniform taper, meaning they decrease in diameter evenly from the end or butt to the tip. A second type is the two-piece cue, divided in the middle for ease of transport, usually in a cue case or pouch. A third variety is another two-piece cue, but with a joint located three-quarters down the cue (usually 12 or 16 inches away from the butt), known as a "three-quarter two-piece", used by snooker players.









There are different grades of hardness for tips, ranging from very soft to very hard. Softer tips (major brands include Elk Master) hold chalk better, but tend to degrade faster from abrasion (from chalk and scuffers), shaping (from cue tip shapers/tackers/picks), and mushrooming (the sides of the tip bulge out from long normal use or from hard hits that compact the tip in all directions). Harder tips (major brands include Blue Diamond Plus, Triangle and Le Professional or "Le Pro") maintain their shape much better, but because of their hardness, chalk tends to not hold as well as it does on softer tips. The hardness of a leather tip is determined from its compression and tanning during the manufacturing process.




The bulk of the weight of the cue is usually distributed in the cue butt portion. Whether the weight be 16 oz. or 22 oz., the weight change is mainly in the butt (usually in the core, under the wrap). Butts have varying constructions, from 3-piece to one-piece, as well as other custom versions that people have developed. These translate into different "feels" because of the distribution of weight as well as the balance point of the cue. Traditionally, players want the balance point of a cue near the top end of the wrap or around 7 inches from where they grip the butt. Some brands, and most custom cuemakers offer weights, usually metal discs of 1 to 2 ounces, that can be added at one or more places to adjust the balance and total weight and feel of the cue.


Materials and design[edit]


External links[edit]

  • The Cue Museum - An online museum dedicated to important works from notable and important cue stick makers throughout history. Also a resource for collectors featuring articles as well as cue stick history.
  • The American Cuemakers Association - An organization dedicated to promoting pool cues as a unique collectible art form.


Article #2

This article will give you a side by side comparison of stamped concrete and pavers. We'll let you decide which is better for your patio, pool patio or walkway.

Stamped Concrete

  • A wide variety of patterns and colors are available.
  • Can imitate natural stone or segmented paving.
  • Colors can be hand blended on site in addition to the color that's added to the concrete mix.
  • A sealer is usually added to protect the concrete from the elements and pool chemicals.


  • Initial cost is somewhat high. Cost of repairs and ongoing maintenance can get very expensive.
  • Difficult for a DIYer to install, and it may require a professional installer.
  • There are some in our industry that say there are only 2 kinds of concrete... "Cracked and Gonna Crack," especially in Connecticut where we have a lot of freezing and thawing.
  • Control joints and saw cuts are necessary to help control where the concrete cracks. They are sometimes made across the stamped pattern lines.
  • There is the possibility for deterioration from de-icing salts.
  • Repairs require patching - color matching of the new concrete to the old is almost impossible.
  • The sealer needs to be reapplied every 2-3 years.
  • Colors may fade over time.

Interlocking Concrete Pavers

  • They won't crack - when installed correctly.
  • Pavers cost about the same as stamped concrete - depending on the application.
  • The cost effeciency over time is very low. They do not need to be replaced.
  • Repairs are easy and seamless.
  • Paver patterns and colors can be mixed and matched to create striking designs with accent borders and bandings. 


  • Joint sand needs to be "topped off" every couple of years unless a polymer sand is used. Polymer sand is a sand that has a polymeric additive in it that binds and hardens the sand grains to each other and the pavers too.
  • Weeds can grow between the pavers unless a polymer sand is used. When the polymer hardens, weeds cannot grow in it.
  • Dye lots can vary from pallet to pallet - so if care is not taken when installing, a large area can appear blotchy. A skilled installer will know how to blend the pavers to eliminate this issue.
  • Pavers can settle and move over time if they are not installed properly. Here in Connecticut, we have to ensure that everything - the existing soil, the base material we bring in, the pavers after they're installed... - is compacted properly or the pavers will heave unevenly with the frost.

As you can see, there are pros and cons to both stamped concrete and interlocking concrete pavers. In the 26 years that Bahler Brothers has been in business, we have found that New England just isn't kind to stamped concrete. Many of the people we've given prices to for patios and pool patios, but who have not gone with pavers, come back to us after a year or 2 with regrets because the stamped concrete they had installed has cracked and doesn't look good.


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